Saint-Tropez

SAINT-TROPEZ ETERNALLY POPULAR

With golden beaches fringing the azure waters of the Mediterranean, its old fishing port and cobbled streets of the La Ponche area, plus its magnetic attraction for drawing the rich and famous, St Trop (as it is affectionately known) promises a holiday to remember. Saint-Tropez is situated in south-eastern France on the French Riviera, 100 kilometres west of Nice, and has a long history stretching back to 599 BC when the Phoenicians built a boat mooring there. In 31 BC, the Romans invaded the area and took control of it, naming it Heraclea-Caccabaria. Even in those ancient times it was popular, and many lavish villas were built there. The town was later renamed after the martyr Saint Torpes. The saint was a Roman soldier who was martyred for his Christian beliefs. He was decapitated in Pisa and his body was thrown into a small boat which drifted for many weeks until it beached at Saint-Tropez in AD 68. The spotlight was first swung onto the little fishing village of Saint-Tropez in the late 19th century when it was discovered by the French painter Paul Signac. By the 1920s, it had become a popular haunt for famous people in the fashion world such as Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. They loved the pretty little fishing port and the village itself with its narrow cobbled streets and plenty of sunshine. In the 1940s, Saint-Tropez was visited by a steady stream of artists including Juliette Gréco, Sartre and Picasso, who found it inspirational. The main turning point came in 1956, when Saint-Tropez was chosen as the setting for the film And God Created Woman, which launched Brigitte Bardot's career as an actress and sex symbol, and Saint-Tropez as a destination for the world's glittering jet set.

Most famous beach resort in Europe

Suddenly, its fishing harbour was filled with yachts rather than fishing boats and the town was becoming known the world over for its topless sunbathing and colourful nightlife. Saint-Tropez gained iconic status as the playground of the rich and famous and ever since then has regularly featured in the lyrics of pop songs. The town quickly developed as a travel destination. In 1967, the famous Hotel Byblos, with its equally famous nightclub Les Caves du Roy, opened. The hotel was built for Brigitte Bardot by a Lebanese billionaire who was totally infatuated with her. Although she always said that she did not like luxury, she did attend its glittering grand opening, which sealed the future of Saint-Tropez forever. Today, Saint-Tropez is the most famous beach resort in Europe. It is still frequented by the rich and famous. In the past, the rich were from Europe and the United States, but over the years Saint Trop has gained universal appeal and affluent Russians, Chinese and many other nationalities enjoy time there – as well as numerous ordinary people! Saint-Tropez offers a variety of accommodation options, from exclusive private villas to stylish places to stay in the surrounding region. IIt is fun to simply stretch out and relax on one of the beautiful beaches of the Côte d’Azur, from hidden coves to famous stretches like Pampelonne near Saint-Tropez. The beaches stretch like a pearl necklace for eight kilometres along the Baie de Pampelonne (just south of the town). In And God Created Woman, Tahiti Beach was shown as one where clothing was definitely optional. Needless to say, the idea quickly caught on – to the horror of the town's mayor, who banned toplessness and ordered the local gendarmerie to patrol the beaches using helicopters. The topless bathers won and today topless is the norm. Some of the beaches are public, others are private – including several, such as Cap d’Agde, for naturists. Those who wish to experience the atmosphere of Saint-Tropez but prefer to stay in a more spacious and tranquil setting will find beautiful villas in Sainte-Maxime and Les Issambres, just a short distance across the bay.

Old town

The most popular beach of them all is Bagatelle, which is the favourite haunt of some of the world's wealthiest people. Enjoying the beautiful coastline is the perfect way to spend the day and, as well as simply doing nothing but soaking up the warmth of the sun, there is a myriad of water sports to enjoy, including windsurfing, canoeing and scuba diving. Motorised water sports are available in several locations and these include powerboats, jet skis and water skiing. If you are exploring the old town, there is the chance to head through the Quai Mistral to the Portalet Tower to discover La Glaye – the first of three lovely smaller beaches that have the backdrop of traditional Tropezian houses. These are the only beaches in the town itself. If you are feeling energetic, there is a lovely coastal path that leads to the little-known beach of Les Graniers. Le Sentier du Littoral is a 12-kilometre coastal walk that is not for the faint-hearted but is truly fabulous as it takes walkers around the headlands leading to the Pampelonne beaches. It takes about four hours to complete and follows a well-maintained and clearly signed pathway. The best news is that at the end of the walk, a plunge in the sea will be so rewarding. For a change of tempo, it is fun to take a stroll around Quai Jean Jaurès. There is a colourful mixture of restaurants and bars overlooking the huge sleek yachts that have a daily mooring fee of up to €1,500. The best known of the restaurants is Sénéquier, with its triangular tables and large red director's chairs. It is a popular spot for 'people watching' and was a family-run restaurant (in its fourth generation) until it was sold recently for an offer that could not be refused. The old part of Saint-Tropez is perfect for a wander as it is so fascinating.

Musée de l'Annonciade

There are little supermarkets and boulangeries (bakeries) rubbing shoulders with stylish yacht charter companies, designer boutiques and restaurants with wonderful menus. Residents go about their daily lives: women heading to the morning market or poissonnerie (fish market) with wicker shopping baskets, and men gathering in the large Place des Lices for a game of boules beneath the plane trees. The ochre-coloured buildings cluster around the parish church, which contains a bust of the martyr St Torpes – his skull is displayed in a chapel in Pisa.

The 16th-century citadel overlooking the old town is a must-see. A steady climb leads up the wooded hill to this well-fortified stronghold that once protected the coast. The views from the top are spectacular, stretching across the town and the sea to the distant Massif des Maures mountains. Inside the citadel, there is an engaging museum of maritime history.

For museum enthusiasts, Saint-Tropez also boasts an excellent art museum – the Musée de l’Annonciade. One of the oldest art galleries in France, it is housed in a former 16th-century chapel and features remarkable works by artists connected to Saint-Tropez, including Matisse, Utrillo, Seurat and Dufy. There are fascinating Pointillist works by Signac – the first artist to spend significant time in the area – as well as sculptures by Henri Laurens.

Food is always an important part of a memorable holiday, and Saint-Tropez offers fantastic restaurants to suit different budgets. Among the most acclaimed is La Vague d’Or at Cheval Blanc St-Tropez, led by the dynamic three-Michelin-starred chef Arnaud Donckele, who creates exceptional dishes showcasing the finest Mediterranean produce.

Restaurants and clubs

The town’s oldest restaurant is Auberge des Maures, located in a Provençal house in a tiny side street near the Place des Lices. For more than 80 years, this beloved institution has regularly welcomed the rich and famous while maintaining its authentic character. There are also a number of more modestly priced restaurants to be found, many of them simple café-brasseries with straightforward furnishings. Popular with local residents — always a good sign — they serve genuine regional cuisine. Les Sporting is one such address, where the “dish of the day” is consistently popular and especially enjoyable when accompanied by a glass or two of the house red wine.

While many visitors prefer a relaxed evening meal followed by a stroll along the harbour or through the old town, others come to Saint-Tropez specifically for its legendary nightlife. It remains one of Europe’s most famous night-time destinations. Les Caves du Roy at the Hôtel Byblos has been the nightclub for more than 50 years. This glamorous venue is a must-see, and resident DJ Jackie-E will quickly have you dancing into the early hours. Entrance is free, although drinks start at around €30.

Other popular nightspots include the VIP Room at Le Gioia, which operates as an elegant Italian-Mediterranean restaurant before transforming into a lively club later in the evening. Gaio is another favourite, offering Japanese-Peruvian fusion cuisine — known as Nikkei — before the focus shifts to music and dancing. You may even find yourself on the dance floor alongside international celebrities.

Although these are considered the “big three,” there are many other excellent clubs in town. Be prepared for long queues unless, of course, you happen to be on the guest list. Saint-Tropez is enjoyable throughout the year, with a variety of cultural events taking place each month, including art exhibitions and film festivals.

Les Voiles de Saint-Tropez

Christmas is also becoming popular, with a chocolate market, skating rink, mulled wine, and fireworks. There are key events each year that draw many additional visitors. The various sailing regattas are always popular, including Les Voiles de Saint-Tropez, the late-summer regatta attracting 300 yachts of all sizes and ages. Le Voiles d'Automne in November is the closing regatta of the year and follows the October Dragon Boat Championship. Other notable events include the Porsche Rally in October, which draws Porsche owners from across Europe who want to see and be seen, and the Festival d'Automne, a classical music festival.

The late-October Braderie — meaning "sale" — is when high-end boutique owners reduce prices on their stock to make way for the new season’s range. The boutiques are located in the shopping triangle of Place des Lices, Rue Gambetta, and Rue Allard, which are home to iconic brands such as Louis Vuitton and Dolce & Gabbana.

Saint-Tropez is fun to visit, as it has been iconic for so many years and is full of contrasts: moonlit walks for two or disco dancing until late, cobbled old streets and traditional bakeries, or chic restaurants rubbing shoulders with celebrities. Saint-Tropez promises a little magic sparkle for everyone.